On the flip side, I override a site's design (I usually keep the layout), and apply my own styles - and I'm glad to say that the web is a much better place for me as a result. I gain in having a more consistent experience across the web. This I think is touched on in Dave's article.

I still appreciate aesthetic beauty, but the web just isn't the place for it. In my mind at least.

Edit: I would change the layout also, but sadly to do that is non trivial.